John Deere Compact Tractor Filter Paks (1-4 series)

Below, I’ve provided links to discounted John Deere filter paks for all 1-4 series tractors.
These links will take you to GreenFarmParts.com and add the appropriate item(s) to your cart.

In addition to filter paks, you will need
Engine Oil 15w-40 Plus 50 II (1 Qt)
3 Quarts required for the 1-series tractors.
Check your manual for capacities on larger tractors.
HyGard Low Viscosity Hydraulic Oil (1 Gal)
OR
HyGard Hydraulic Oil (1 Gal)

4 Gallons of HyGard are required to change the hydraulic oil in the 1-Series tractors.
Check your manual for capacities on the larger tractors.

 

Part Number/Link to GFP Description
LVA21035 Filter Pak, 1023E and 1026R Tractors
LVA21036 Filter Pak, 1025R Tractors
LVA21196 Filter Pak, 2210 Tractors
LVA21200 Filter Pak, 2305 Tractors
LVA21204 Filter Pak, 2320 and 2025R Tractors
LVA21201 Filter Pak, 2520, 2720, 2027R and 2032R Tractors
LVA21128 Filter Pak, 3032E and 3038E SN -610,000 Tractors
LVA21037 Filter Pak, 3032E and 3038R SN 610,000- Tractors
LVA21038 Filter Pak, 3033R, 3039R and 3046R Tractors
LVA21202 Filter Pak, 3120, 3320, 3520, 3720, 4005 and 4105 Tractors
LVA21039 Filter Pak, 4M and 4R series Tractors
LVA21192 Filter Pak, 4010 Tractor
LVA21197 Filter Pak, 4100 and 4110 Tractors
LVA21193 Filter Pak, 4115 Tractors
LVA21203 Filter Pak, 4120, 4320, 4520 and 4720 Tractors
LVA21198 Filter Pak, 4200, 4300 and 4400 Tractors
LVA21194 Filter Pak, 4210, 4310 and 4410 Tractors
LVA21199 Filter Pak, 4500, 4600 and 4700 Tractors
LVA21195 Filter Pak, 4510, 4610 and 4710 Tractors

12 Comments

  1. Tim,

    I enjoy your family’s videos and have become an avid fan. I currently do not have a John Deere Tractor; however, after watching your videos, I am leaning toward purchasing a 1025R next year (hope). Before I started watching the videos, I looking at the Ventrac, but your videos have convinced me otherwise. I do own an old Yanmar 1500 (year 1978) and 3 attachments. Too, years ago, I did own a John Deere lawn tractor for 14 years.

    Did you consider any other tractors before John Deere? If so, why the John Deere?

    I live in south Louisiana and own 2 1/3 acres. A 1025R TLB would be perfect for my needs. I have a lot of stumps to dig up, would like to garden, maintain a long driveway, and mow.

    Thanks

    • Lod,

      I had casually looked at the subcompact tractors for years. More as a fantasy than any serious thought of getting one. I would look at the the National Farm Machinery Show each year. You can check out the show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JfpSSpAbmc&list=PLuUZ6lo0MDxDdMZ2nu4R7C8y0KUThDiQ3

      I noticed that Deere had much easier attachability. The backhoe, and front end loader are both very easy to attach. The loader bucket’s quick attach is very easy to use. The auto-connect mower deck is amazing.

      The hydraulic control for the loader is positioned beside the seat so that it can be reached comfortably. The Kubota has the joystick up front where you have to reach out to control it.

      The “treadle pedal” hydrostatic control on the Kubota isn’t nearly as comfortable for me to control as the separate pedals for the Deere.

      Now, in the Kubota’s favor, based on everything I see online, the BX backhoe appears to be more powerful and smoother to operate than the 260 backhoe. For me, this weakness wasn’t that big of a deal, but it IS a definite Kubota advantage.

      There are a couple other less technical factors which led me to Deere.
      1) My family has run Deere equipment for the last 30 years. Since one of the subtle reasons for getting the tractor is to ‘pretend’ that I’m a real farmer, it only made sense to get a Deere!
      2) Deere has a significant dealer base and a history of keeping parts available for a long time. Even after Deere stops carrying parts, they are available from 3rd parties.

      Resale value for Deere subcompacts (and larger tractors) appears to be higher than for Kubota, and Kubota is higher than the rest of the brands. I find that resale value is a great indicator of the long term usability of the tractor.

      Having said all of this, all of these little tractors will be reliable. All of them will provide years of productivity. I really don’t think you can go wrong.

      Does this help?

  2. New subscriber, hate typing, like all your videos, never did this subscribing thing had to try it to see if I was missing anything.My 1025r is almost a year old now, and has 52 hrs on it. I live north of Champaign and my daughter is going to U of I ,very proud of her ,I never went to college myself. Have a question, my tractor has used some oil and I don’t know if this is normal or not . I wonder if my oil rings have seated properly?
    A FARMERS SON

  3. It’s down about 1/2 jn from full line, I wonder if anyone else has had this happen ? Sorry I’m not to good about leaving comments on these websites, not sure how to do it, yours was a big step for me. Thanks for the reply.

    • Chris,
      I wouldn’t worry about the 1/2 inch below full line. Might not have been totally up to full mark when delivered.
      It is time for your first service. Are you planning to do that yourself, or have the dealer do it? If DIY, I have some videos on the topics…and there are discount links in this site.

      Thanks for making the effort to leave comments here! We are honored!

      • Called the dealer, they told me that idling the tractor a lot probably has not set the oil rings yet.They also said that deere recommends leaving break in oil in the tractor for 200 hrs so the rings will seat properly and not to change oil at 50 hrs anymore, if it takes years to get 200 hrs on my tractor, they said I could change it early but need to put break in oil back in it until 200 hrs is up. I do need to change hydrolic fluid and will do it myself . Your video was good thanks. My brother thinks I’m going through a midlife crisis for buying this tractor for my lawn, other guys buy sport cars.

  4. Is this the best way to talk with you or do you have a better way ? I was thinking about putting a rear work light on , I would love to see a video on how to wire it up, if you know how, and if I need a special wire harness ?

    • With the 1025R, it is pre-wired for the rear light kit. I’m not sure what is actually pre-wired…I bought my rear light kit pre-installed by the dealer when my tractor was new.
      If I had it to do over, I might get LED lights for both the auxilary and rear lights. Deere offers them, but they are crazy expensive. I do not know of a 3rd party who offers them with correct plugs for the 1025R

  5. Tim, Thanks for ALL your Videos. I believe that I have watched almost all of them. They have been extremely helpful since I’m a city kid who now lives on a couple of acres. Just purchased some new parts and filters for my 1025r using your code to take some of the sting out of the purchase.

  6. I was watching you do some service on Johnny and noticed the difficulty you have with the hose clamps. I would like to suggest you go ahead and spend a couple of bucks and replace those clamps with the kind you can tighten with a nut driver or screw driver. This way you can position them to make it easier to loosen and they will also slide back and forth much easier.

    One last thing please. When using your backhoe, what throttle setting do you use?

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