Friday, September 25, 2020
Home Attachments Heavy Hitch Which Heavy Hitch Should I buy?

Which Heavy Hitch Should I buy?

Heavy Hitch
There are several variations of Heavy Hitch available. Which one is right for your tractor? As we examine each of these configurations in detail, hopefully you will be able to pick out the perfect one for your situation. Remember, no matter which variant you choose, be sure to use the TTWT coupon code at checkout for a 5% discount.

3 Point Hitch Size (Category)

3 Point hitches come in several different sizes. These sizes are referred to as ‘Categories’. Garden Tractors, if they have 3 point hitches are usually ‘Category 0’. Sub-compact tractors, and compact utility tractors up to 50hp or so are typically ‘Category 1’. 50 hp and larger utility tractors are likely ‘Category 2’. There are more categories, but they are not relevant to potential Heavy Hitch uses.

Most Heavy Hitch variants are Category 1. However, there is one made specifically for Category 0, and one specfically made for Category 2.

For the rest of this article, we will focus on the various Category 1 hitches.

Weight brackets

The hitches vary by the number and location of weight brackets. Some optimize the location for the most compact weight placement, others optimize the bracket location(s) to handle larger weights or more weights.

Ground Engaging Implements

Heavy Hitch makes several attachments which connect to the 2 inch receiver hitch. Examples include a sub-soiler and a toolbar with hiller/bedder. These implements are recommended only on the heavier “super duty” receiver hitches. These hitches are made of thicker steel.

In addition to thicker/stronger steel, these hitches have a ‘grab hook’ welded on the top. This hook can provide a handy place to connect a chain for pulling/lifting tasks.

The table below details the features of each Heavy Hitch variant.

Hitch
Description
2"
Receiver
Hitch
Max Weight
(with 42lb weights)
Max Weight
(with 70lb weights)
Supports
Ground Engaging
Implements
Basic Receiver Hitch Adapter(HA1)Yes---
Standard DutyHitch and Bracket (HH1)Yes368 lb (8)--
Super DutyHitch Bracket(HH1S)Yes368 lb (8)-Yes
Offset BracketHitch (HH1UO)Yes368 lb (8)596 lb (8)Yes
Double BracketHitch (HH1DB)Yes708 lb (16)1176 lb (16)Yes

Which one is right for you?

For subcompact tractors which are not used to lift heavy loads with the FEL, the “Super Duty” would be my recommendation.

If you have a slightly larger tractor, or if you plan to use your FEL to its maximum capacity (as I sometimes do), consider the offset bracket. If you are comfortable with 70lb weights, the offset bracket provides the most compact way to get almost 600 lbs of ballast. You can use any combination of 8x 42lb or 70lb weights depending on your needs.

If you have a 2-series or larger tractor, I would highly recommend the double bracket, and consider getting 16 of the 70lb weights. This will provide 1156lb (including bracket) of ballast. The double bracket is a tight fit on sub-compact tractors like the 1-series. We will soon have a video showing this. It CAN work, but it is somewhat cumbersome due to the short lift arms on these small tractors. Larger tractors will provide much more room, allowing a full set of weights on the inner bracket. Also, while it works with the Deere iMatch quick hitch, it does not work with the ‘more bulky’ (less refined) Harbor Freight hitch that I have.

Even with fluid (Rimguard) in my rear tires, rear wheel weights, and a 8x 42lb weights, I find that my 1025R is often not ballasted properly for the load I am carrying. This is an area where planning ahead for the worst case scenario is probably the best answer. So, if you own the 1-series, consider the offset bracket. If you have a larger tractor with more space between the lift arms, you’ll likely want the double bracket. More ballast is better, and more flexibility is best!

40 COMMENTS

  1. Hi Tim, you mention the double bracket is pretty tight using the weights on the inside for a 1025r. I’m curious how tight. Do you have any pictures or video of this? I am looking to purchase one and would love the versatility of the double hitch, just not sure if it will work based on your comments. Love your article by the way, very timely and with great info, well done!!

  2. Tim, I’m new to the compact tractor world, heck, new to the tractor world really. You referred to using your FEL to its maximum capacity. Please explain FEL. Thanks

  3. Hi Tim, I’m using my loader to load logs on a dump trailer, and as You have shown the 1025R has short reach. Do you know of anyone selling a good set of ramps that may give us some more dumping hieght. Thanks, Mike

    • Several folks mention that approach. I have not investigated. I’m typically loading dirt/aggregate, etc, so I need to dump each bucket full in a different area of the trailer, so ramps would not work well for me.

  4. Hey Tim I found some ramps, check out wheel riser ramps, ( instead of searching for car or truck ramps) there made to park 18 wheeler’s at loading docks that are to low. they come from 6″ up to 12″ of rise and lengths long enough to use just the front tires or the whole machine if wanted. I let you no how I make out.

  5. Tim. Love your videos. One comment is that to me the price of suite case weights is astronomical. Seems to me a barrel oc concrete with the 3 pt bards cast in would be muche cheaper

    • Yes. At first I agreed with you.
      However, the weights are very compact, and provide flexible ballast options. …front or rear, variable amounts of ballast, and compact storage.
      I personally donโ€™t want a barrel of concrete sitting around in the way all of the time. I should do a video on this.

    • Yes. You are right. Heavy hitch has them pretty competitively. Shipping is low from them. Once you apply the TTWT 5% Discount, this seems to be a great deal.

  6. I mow sideways on a steep grade. I felt comfortable in my old 420 with 270 lbs of weight in box 8″ sitting on rear hitch plate. The 1025r ( I have maybe 30 minutes on it as I just got it) I feel not quite as comfortable, but I need to take off the FEL and backhoe. Regarding heavy hitch in this case. I like the idea of the dual as I could put my old 42 lb weights in front of bracket and they would be lower to ground. THen the 70 lb I could put in back when I do FEL work. Does this sound reasonable?

    I know the imatch is 3x HF but do you feel the imatch will support 8 weights in front with no interference from the ARMS?

    Thanks for all your info. After they delivered the 1025R, I only had about 30 minutes, and played with the backhoe for a bit then put it in the shed ๐Ÿ™ Next weekend. I appreciate all your videos and I have bought much of my accessories based on your eval and showing of use. Artillion so far, but now thinking which heavy hitch to get. Heavy hitch unfortunately is farther away from me for shipping costs for weights. I found the JD AgPro can get me the 70lb for < $100 including the tax. So for me that works out a bit better. But still gettting the hitch and cart from HH.

    Thanks much
    David

    • You won’t need more than 8x70lb on the rear heavy hitch. You can lower the 3 pt hitch as low as you would like.
      Having said that, I do not know if you will be able to create enough ‘low center of gravity’ type weight to provide the comfort you desire.
      I would recommend that you have your tires filled with fluid. (I use Rimguard, some others use winshield washer fluid). This is the cheapest and ‘lowest’ weight you can get. I would also recommend wheel weights on the rear. This will lower the center of gravity significantly.

      Levi (featured on this site, and mi2tn on YouTube) has a very steep yard. He has even filled the front tires with fluid (only adds 30lbs or so) for this reason.

      I do think the heavy hitch might help…if ran in the lowered position.

  7. Thanks for your reply. I see many of your videos you are using a full weight set, and you seem to carry 16 weights at times. I guess I was thinking I may need them with the FEL. I was surprised my 420 loader is a 54 inch bucket. It could not lift it if heaping full of gravel, but could do ok if leveled off. But I always moved with it low as I could.

    I asked the dealer and they said they would put fluid in the tires, not sure how to verify, position the stem on lower level and let a little air out, see if fluid comes out?

    I ordered the heavy hitch today with the weights. I was not going to order the weights from them but after talking I see the freight is much less if you have it shipped to a Fastenall near your location ๐Ÿ™‚

    • I hope you got the TTWT discount!
      I usually run 4x70lb and 4x42lb on my Heavy hitch.
      I did one video showing 16x 42 so that folks could see how it looked and worked.

  8. hey there tim! if i have my tires filled and just the first wheel weight and a box blade wouldnt that be enough weight? im never really in any tight spaces

    • Do you mean Philip, with Cancer? He passed away a little over a year ago now.
      His wife has sold the barn and rental house we were working around. She also sold the 5 series Deere and the Massey tractor. She is keeping โ€œlil blueโ€.
      Anyway, Philip is in heaven now. No worries!

  9. Tim, I apologize if I’m posting this in the wrong area. I searched your web site and found no mention of the Terra King MCS even though you have some excellent videos on it. I have a TKV20 being delivered in two days. I watched your installation video again to get more familiar with it and realized that your video was made before you got the “Load-N-Go” mower deck lifting attachment. The Load-N-Go video does not make any mention of the TKV20 either.
    That scared me a little because I’m wondering about the compatibility of the two items. I certainly don’t want to have to remove the Load-N-Go each time I want to install the TKV20.
    One of the reasons I bought the TKV20 was because of the simplicity of quickly attaching or removing it and I would hate to see this become a problem. I would really like to have it be an easy option to use either the standard discharge deflector or the material collection elbow and leave the Load-N-Go in place.
    Please tell me that the two work well together.

      • Thank you for the quick reply, Tim. I’ve bought a number of the items that you have reviewed. Your opinions are well explained and welcomed. I’ve been able to put together an arsenal of equipment that is serving my needs very well. Keep up the good work and lets see some more videos with the 1025R.

      • Tim,
        I have been using the TKV20 and I like the way it works. There was no interference with the Load-N-Go. Also, I had to move the Bolt On Hooks 6in. step up one hole to make it clear the Load-N-Go but it’s working OK at that level.

  10. I am curious if your opinion is still the same and still recommend the offset bracket over the dual weight bracket for the 1025R since you have completed many more projects.

    I have seen several of your videos and it seems like you had (8) 70lbs and you still had people standing on the hitch to get more ballast. I know the 120R manual does state a minimum of 500-600lbs of rear ballast on the 3 point depending on the options you choose. The offset bracket with 70 lbs would place you right at the minimum recommended ballast.

    • Watch Tim’s video about putting the Rim Guard beet juice in the rear tires. It added about 200 lbs. to the rear of my tractor and it’s ballast that’s centered as low as you can get in the rear end for improving stability. That plus eight 42 lb. weights on the Heavy Hitch did wonders for mine. I’m not young anymore and I don’t want to mess with 70 lb. weights. I also added 1-1/2″ spacers to each side and that has helped on my hillside work.

  11. I used a Ford 1710 diesel tractor with a 60″ box blade and 4 scarifiers. It worked well as I could shorten the top link in order to make the blade more aggressive and “cut” into the ground deeper. This tractor had maybe 30 hp or so. I recently bought a larger tractor 50 hp Farmtrac 60. The same box blade that works so well on the smaller tractor is largely ineffective on the larger tractor. It barely makes contact on the ground at its lowest position of the tractor. When I shorten the top link the box blade is 2′ or more above the ground and useless. I don’t understand what is need to do to make this work.

  12. Tim, you should update this article to include the new Category 1 Hitch Receiver Drawbar and Bracket for 100lb John Deere Suitcase Weights.

    What do you normally run on the rear of the 2038R? What about on the front?

    • Yes, I need to do that. I typically run 8x 70 lb on the 2038r, but a full rack of 100lb on the new bracket would be great!

  13. I enjoy your videos and learning about the tractors and options ahead of actually buying one to replace my aging John Deere 420 and am in the process of buying a new 2025R. Dealer is waiting for the 60″ mower to come before delivering it sometime in late May. Tractor will come with the 120 loader and the JD iMatch product. Looking at ballast weight to use with the loader. I like removable weights as opposed to wheel weights or loaded rear tires, allowing me the choice of lightening the tractor for just mowing. I like the Heavy Hitch; looks like a great product, just not sure how much ballast weight I really need. The Offset Weight Bracket allows my up to 8 x 70 lbs. The Dual Weight Bracket would allow 16 X 70 lbs. In the absence of manuals at this time how much weight is recommended? I’ve also purchased a Frontier 60″ QA snowplow for the FEL and I’m guessing the weight while not necessarily required for plowing (not lifting anything other than the plow) would be a great benefit for moving snow.

  14. I also had (still have a 420). I bought 1025. I bought the heavy hitch dual weight bracket and also have imatch hitch. I have only used with 8 70lb weights, but I also have 8 45’s. ( 6 from 420 and I bought 2 more) Probably more than I need. I also bought the grapple. WIth the grapple, I do use the rear weights. I cut down about 30 trees on a steep slope. I cut to about 15 feet. I had trouble lifting some of them as they were quite heavy. I could lift them 2-3 feet, and then backed up the hill. I really did not slip much. The weight of the log and the 700 + lbs in back worked for me. A few weeks ago I went to plant a few trees so I had backhoe on to did for transplanting. I went down the hill, but I could not get back up. Hill was about 200 feet long and steep grade. I got about 100 feet, and I could see front tires come off the ground about 6 inches. I forgot I did not have front bucket on. I went back down slowly, then backed up hill and it worked fine. But I like the weights more than the bucket for ballast.

    I was talked into the forks also. Forks have have used alot. They are great for moving trees etc. I dug my own in ground pool with the 1025 and I had to move a Palm tree I had. It was about 4 feet high and about 6-8 feet around. I dug around the edge but I would have really messed it up using only backhoe and bucket. Putting the forks under the palm allowed me to get more of roots and plant it easily. It is doing fine :). Also I used the forks to unload cement from Big Box store. I could only lift 10 bags at a time.(800lbs). But I have a few extra pallets now, and I lift the pallet to level of my trailer, then I load 10 up. Did not have to do alot of bending for this. Then I moved the around with 10 on a pallet. I mixed my own concrete, and it was handy to have the pallet at chest height so I could grab them put them in mixer. saved some bending and lift when they were at right height.

    My one comment to you was the 60 mower deck. I bought the ride over deck and it is the only piece I am not happy with. It only raises to about 3.5 inches. My old 420 50 deck, I used on some property we have and I could put it 8″ off ground and use it almost like bush hog. Not heavy stuff but it would get briers and tall grass easy. The other thing I dont like about the 60 deck is the front mount bracket does not fold in. I guess not a problem, but the 12×26 shed I have is roomy, however, I let neighbor store his kubota in there also. They fit ok, but i have other tools also. I dont like that the front arm does not fold up out of the way. Maybe just me. ๐Ÿ™‚ I did not read until after I bought that the ride over deck does not raise as much as the regular deck. But it is nice to take on and put off. I think Kubota guys get a little jealous :). I will buy the new lift brackets they have for the deck. My old 420 I could tip on side and get blades off to sharpen, this deck is bigger, heavier, and I am older now.

    I do love the 1025, and reviewed this website a lot before I bought. I bought most of the recommendations. I did buy a few items from bxexpanded. Tooth bar, 6″ bucket, and root ripper. Use them all. Root ripper works great on small bushes such as 4″ in diameter, and rips all out easily. I have used on larger stumps such as some 2 year old cut trees, 12+ inches in diameter. It will usually cut the roots, then I can grap the stump with the backhoe and get it out. Not a 10 minute job as I need to get around the edge. And it is sure a lot easier sitting down than it was when I was younger and used an ax.

  15. I have a b01 series kubota and access to as many of the 100lb suitcase weights i can haul off. Once you put the weights on the heavy hitch does it just sit on the ground unhooked or do you have to unload the weights every time?

    • First, make sure you purchase the bracket which handles the 100lb weights! There is a Cat 1 version and a Cat 2 version.
      For my 100lb version, I use 16x 100 lb Deere style weights. I leave the weights on the bracket all of the time. When I want to remove the bracket, I set it on a pallet with a couple of 6×6’s on top of the pallet so that it is tall enough that the 3 point can be unhooked.
      I can then move the fully configured bracket with my front end loader. …of course, 1600 lbs is too much for the smaller tractors, but this is also too much ballast for the smaller tractors….typically, your loader should be able to lift the necessary ballast for your tractor/loader. Maybe not to full height, but at least high enough to move it when necessary.
      I hope this helps.

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