Which Heavy Hitch Should I buy?

Heavy Hitch
There are several variations of Heavy Hitch available. Which one is right for your tractor? As we examine each of these configurations in detail, hopefully you will be able to pick out the perfect one for your situation. Remember, no matter which variant you choose, be sure to use the TTWT coupon code at checkout for a 5% discount.

3 Point Hitch Size (Category)

3 Point hitches come in several different sizes. These sizes are referred to as ‘Categories’. Garden Tractors, if they have 3 point hitches are usually ‘Category 0’. Sub-compact tractors, and compact utility tractors up to 50hp or so are typically ‘Category 1’. 50 hp and larger utility tractors are likely ‘Category 2’. There are more categories, but they are not relevant to potential Heavy Hitch uses.

Most Heavy Hitch variants are Category 1. However, there is one made specifically for Category 0, and one specfically made for Category 2.

For the rest of this article, we will focus on the various Category 1 hitches.

Weight brackets

The hitches vary by the number and location of weight brackets. Some optimize the location for the most compact weight placement, others optimize the bracket location(s) to handle larger weights or more weights.

Ground Engaging Implements

Heavy Hitch makes several attachments which connect to the 2 inch receiver hitch. Examples include a sub-soiler and a toolbar with hiller/bedder. These implements are recommended only on the heavier “super duty” receiver hitches. These hitches are made of thicker steel.

In addition to thicker/stronger steel, these hitches have a ‘grab hook’ welded on the top. This hook can provide a handy place to connect a chain for pulling/lifting tasks.

The table below details the features of each Heavy Hitch variant.

Hitch
Description
2"
Receiver
Hitch
Max Weight
(with 42lb weights)
Max Weight
(with 70lb weights)
Supports
Ground Engaging
Implements
Basic Receiver Hitch Adapter(HA1)Yes---
Standard DutyHitch and Bracket (HH1)Yes368 lb (8)--
Super DutyHitch Bracket(HH1S)Yes368 lb (8)-Yes
Offset BracketHitch (HH1UO)Yes368 lb (8)596 lb (8)Yes
Double BracketHitch (HH1DB)Yes708 lb (16)1176 lb (16)Yes

Which one is right for you?

For subcompact tractors which are not used to lift heavy loads with the FEL, the “Super Duty” would be my recommendation.

If you have a slightly larger tractor, or if you plan to use your FEL to its maximum capacity (as I sometimes do), consider the offset bracket. If you are comfortable with 70lb weights, the offset bracket provides the most compact way to get almost 600 lbs of ballast. You can use any combination of 8x 42lb or 70lb weights depending on your needs.

If you have a 2-series or larger tractor, I would highly recommend the double bracket, and consider getting 16 of the 70lb weights. This will provide 1156lb (including bracket) of ballast. The double bracket is a tight fit on sub-compact tractors like the 1-series. We will soon have a video showing this. It CAN work, but it is somewhat cumbersome due to the short lift arms on these small tractors. Larger tractors will provide much more room, allowing a full set of weights on the inner bracket. Also, while it works with the Deere iMatch quick hitch, it does not work with the ‘more bulky’ (less refined) Harbor Freight hitch that I have.

Even with fluid (Rimguard) in my rear tires, rear wheel weights, and a 8x 42lb weights, I find that my 1025R is often not ballasted properly for the load I am carrying. This is an area where planning ahead for the worst case scenario is probably the best answer. So, if you own the 1-series, consider the offset bracket. If you have a larger tractor with more space between the lift arms, you’ll likely want the double bracket. More ballast is better, and more flexibility is best!

31 Comments

  1. Hi Tim, you mention the double bracket is pretty tight using the weights on the inside for a 1025r. I’m curious how tight. Do you have any pictures or video of this? I am looking to purchase one and would love the versatility of the double hitch, just not sure if it will work based on your comments. Love your article by the way, very timely and with great info, well done!!

  2. Tim, I’m new to the compact tractor world, heck, new to the tractor world really. You referred to using your FEL to its maximum capacity. Please explain FEL. Thanks

  3. Hi Tim, I’m using my loader to load logs on a dump trailer, and as You have shown the 1025R has short reach. Do you know of anyone selling a good set of ramps that may give us some more dumping hieght. Thanks, Mike

    • Several folks mention that approach. I have not investigated. I’m typically loading dirt/aggregate, etc, so I need to dump each bucket full in a different area of the trailer, so ramps would not work well for me.

  4. Hey Tim I found some ramps, check out wheel riser ramps, ( instead of searching for car or truck ramps) there made to park 18 wheeler’s at loading docks that are to low. they come from 6″ up to 12″ of rise and lengths long enough to use just the front tires or the whole machine if wanted. I let you no how I make out.

  5. Tim. Love your videos. One comment is that to me the price of suite case weights is astronomical. Seems to me a barrel oc concrete with the 3 pt bards cast in would be muche cheaper

    • Also I can’t spell

    • Yes. At first I agreed with you.
      However, the weights are very compact, and provide flexible ballast options. …front or rear, variable amounts of ballast, and compact storage.
      I personally don’t want a barrel of concrete sitting around in the way all of the time. I should do a video on this.

  6. Yes. A video would be great. My concern really was just the price. Over a dollar a pound. Adds up real quick.

    • Yes. You are right. Heavy hitch has them pretty competitively. Shipping is low from them. Once you apply the TTWT 5% Discount, this seems to be a great deal.

  7. I mow sideways on a steep grade. I felt comfortable in my old 420 with 270 lbs of weight in box 8″ sitting on rear hitch plate. The 1025r ( I have maybe 30 minutes on it as I just got it) I feel not quite as comfortable, but I need to take off the FEL and backhoe. Regarding heavy hitch in this case. I like the idea of the dual as I could put my old 42 lb weights in front of bracket and they would be lower to ground. THen the 70 lb I could put in back when I do FEL work. Does this sound reasonable?

    I know the imatch is 3x HF but do you feel the imatch will support 8 weights in front with no interference from the ARMS?

    Thanks for all your info. After they delivered the 1025R, I only had about 30 minutes, and played with the backhoe for a bit then put it in the shed 🙁 Next weekend. I appreciate all your videos and I have bought much of my accessories based on your eval and showing of use. Artillion so far, but now thinking which heavy hitch to get. Heavy hitch unfortunately is farther away from me for shipping costs for weights. I found the JD AgPro can get me the 70lb for < $100 including the tax. So for me that works out a bit better. But still gettting the hitch and cart from HH.

    Thanks much
    David

    • You won’t need more than 8x70lb on the rear heavy hitch. You can lower the 3 pt hitch as low as you would like.
      Having said that, I do not know if you will be able to create enough ‘low center of gravity’ type weight to provide the comfort you desire.
      I would recommend that you have your tires filled with fluid. (I use Rimguard, some others use winshield washer fluid). This is the cheapest and ‘lowest’ weight you can get. I would also recommend wheel weights on the rear. This will lower the center of gravity significantly.

      Levi (featured on this site, and mi2tn on YouTube) has a very steep yard. He has even filled the front tires with fluid (only adds 30lbs or so) for this reason.

      I do think the heavy hitch might help…if ran in the lowered position.

  8. Thanks for your reply. I see many of your videos you are using a full weight set, and you seem to carry 16 weights at times. I guess I was thinking I may need them with the FEL. I was surprised my 420 loader is a 54 inch bucket. It could not lift it if heaping full of gravel, but could do ok if leveled off. But I always moved with it low as I could.

    I asked the dealer and they said they would put fluid in the tires, not sure how to verify, position the stem on lower level and let a little air out, see if fluid comes out?

    I ordered the heavy hitch today with the weights. I was not going to order the weights from them but after talking I see the freight is much less if you have it shipped to a Fastenall near your location 🙂

    • I hope you got the TTWT discount!
      I usually run 4x70lb and 4x42lb on my Heavy hitch.
      I did one video showing 16x 42 so that folks could see how it looked and worked.

  9. hey there tim! if i have my tires filled and just the first wheel weight and a box blade wouldnt that be enough weight? im never really in any tight spaces

  10. Thanks Brother!! any updates on that guy in
    kentucky we are praying for him

    • Do you mean Philip, with Cancer? He passed away a little over a year ago now.
      His wife has sold the barn and rental house we were working around. She also sold the 5 series Deere and the Massey tractor. She is keeping “lil blue”.
      Anyway, Philip is in heaven now. No worries!

  11. glad to hear he was a christian!

    thanks for response

  12. Tim, I apologize if I’m posting this in the wrong area. I searched your web site and found no mention of the Terra King MCS even though you have some excellent videos on it. I have a TKV20 being delivered in two days. I watched your installation video again to get more familiar with it and realized that your video was made before you got the “Load-N-Go” mower deck lifting attachment. The Load-N-Go video does not make any mention of the TKV20 either.
    That scared me a little because I’m wondering about the compatibility of the two items. I certainly don’t want to have to remove the Load-N-Go each time I want to install the TKV20.
    One of the reasons I bought the TKV20 was because of the simplicity of quickly attaching or removing it and I would hate to see this become a problem. I would really like to have it be an easy option to use either the standard discharge deflector or the material collection elbow and leave the Load-N-Go in place.
    Please tell me that the two work well together.

    • Good question.
      There is no compatibility issue between the load n go and the tkv20. Both work fine together. I posted a photo to Instagram illustrating this. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx5OJeKn6Xv/?igshid=dissdwlzpedy
      However, I forgot to mention it here, or in a video.

      • Thank you for the quick reply, Tim. I’ve bought a number of the items that you have reviewed. Your opinions are well explained and welcomed. I’ve been able to put together an arsenal of equipment that is serving my needs very well. Keep up the good work and lets see some more videos with the 1025R.

      • Tim,
        I have been using the TKV20 and I like the way it works. There was no interference with the Load-N-Go. Also, I had to move the Bolt On Hooks 6in. step up one hole to make it clear the Load-N-Go but it’s working OK at that level.

  13. I am curious if your opinion is still the same and still recommend the offset bracket over the dual weight bracket for the 1025R since you have completed many more projects.

    I have seen several of your videos and it seems like you had (8) 70lbs and you still had people standing on the hitch to get more ballast. I know the 120R manual does state a minimum of 500-600lbs of rear ballast on the 3 point depending on the options you choose. The offset bracket with 70 lbs would place you right at the minimum recommended ballast.

    • Watch Tim’s video about putting the Rim Guard beet juice in the rear tires. It added about 200 lbs. to the rear of my tractor and it’s ballast that’s centered as low as you can get in the rear end for improving stability. That plus eight 42 lb. weights on the Heavy Hitch did wonders for mine. I’m not young anymore and I don’t want to mess with 70 lb. weights. I also added 1-1/2″ spacers to each side and that has helped on my hillside work.

    • Yes. My recommendation stands. Those situations you’ve seen are extreme.

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