Long time Tractor Time with Tim viewers should recognize my ongoing struggles with grease gun technology. In one instance, my grease gun ‘blew up’ on me while filming a greasing video, spilling grease all over me, my chair AND the floor. You can see that video here:
In the above video, you can likely detect that even though I got a new grease gun, I still wasn’t ‘thrilled’ with the results. Maybe this gun was better than the old one, but it still has the plunger, and the ability for grease to ‘seep’ around the seals and end up streaming out the bottom of the gun. I suppose I just accepted that this was as good as it gets. After all, grease gun technology has remained constant, at least here in the USA for my entire lifetime. The very first grease guns I used as a kid were essentially identical to the gun I purchased for the above video.
Recently, the makers of the Lube Shuttle grease system reached out to me, introducing me to a “new world” of grease technology. Finally, a grease gun with no plunger! No way to leak grease out the bottom end.
Tubes are threaded for easy attachment to the gun. If you use multiple types of grease, you can easily change tubes, even when a tube is partially used. Just put the cap back on the partially used tube and set it aside for later use.
How To Purchase
If you purchase directly from the Lube Shuttle store, you can enter coupon code TTWT to receive a 5% discount on your entire purchase. WooHoo!
There are several packages available. I would suggest considering one of the packages with a grease gun and 10 tubes of grease to start your collection.
Type of Grease
I find it difficult to know which type of grease is best for my situation. When I read the recommendations by each type of grease, they often sound just alike to me, so this becomes difficult. I asked the Lube Shuttle guys to help with this. After they attempted to explain to me repeatedly, I think I can summarize as follows:
- G2 – Good general purpose grease. Probably the most applicable for equipment like mine
- G200EP – Heavier grease than G2. Consider this a higher grade or premium grease.
- MoS2 – Better yet, but likely not much benefit over the other two grades for typical small tractor usage
Overall, they suggested that our viewers select G2 or G200EP. If you have more questions on the applicability of the different grades of grease, I’ll have to refer you to Lube-Shuttle. This discussion quickly rose above my ability to comprehend. Of course that isn’t too difficult 🙂
Accessories
There are a couple of accessories you might want to consider with your order. First, I find a locking coupler to be incredibly effective. Lube Shuttle offers what they call the “safeLOCK” coupler. I don’t have a lot of experience with it yet, but it seems to be effective. I find it a bit more difficult to lock on to the fitting than the competitor’s model, but I was told it would “loosen up a bit” after I used it some more.
If you already have the Lock-n-Lube coupler, there is an adapter necessary to connect it to the metric hose on the Lube-Shuttle Gun. I’m including a link here to that adapter to make it easier for you.
Another accessory, recommended by my brother Tom is an extra-long hose. Tom is a big fan of the 3 ft / 1 meter hose because it allows you plenty of flexibility with the location of the grease gun. Often there is not a lot of room for you, and the grease gun to be within arms length of the fitting. With the extended hose, you can get the grease gun out of the way.
Your Feedback
I’m interested in hearing your results with the Lube-Shuttle system in the comment section below. Have you tried it? Does it work for you? If not, what is holding you back?
If you haven’t seen it yet, be sure to take a few minutes to see the Lube Shuttle in action in this video:
Are the tubes of grease proprietary only from Lube Shuttle? or do other manufacturers make the same type of “tube of grease” to work in this gun?
Currently, only a few companies in the USA package grease in these tubes. Apparently, this is the ‘standard’ packaging in Europe. So, for now, getting the grease from Lube Shuttle is the most practical way.
They have several grades and types of grease, so you should be able to get everything you need.
that needle seems longer than the one on your amazon page?
It may be. I bought it locally. The amazon one should be fine.
okay…thanks
Tim picked up both the locking grease tip and the grease needle, they work great, thanks. Also I watched one of your videos where the wife said hooking up Johnny’s loader hose was hard for her. I just ordered a new 1025R and had the dealer install BW16400 single point connector $769. If it works as people say, I’m gonna pick up another for my old 1025R that my son bought from me. I’ll let you know.
Sounds good. You got the Lock-N-Lube,?
Just ordered a G2 kit w3′ hose
Already have a Lock-N-Lube
You’ll need the adapter to use your Lock n lube ok this gun.
I have a link to it on our amazon store.
Thanks for your order!
Thanks, I ordered that too along with a needle tip and some jerk covers
You can buy empty cartridges for the gun click here
https://advancedenginetech.com/product/empty-lube-shuttle-cartridges-10-tubes
Thanks Bob!
Tim, I am interested in the greasing needle that has the sliding stabilizer that fits over the Lube Shuttle safeLOCK locking coupler which you used in the Lube Shuttle video. The one that is currently listed in your store does not seem to be the same thing. Where can I find it?
Tim, I noticed two things on your Grease the tractor video. 1. You should always clean your grease(zerk) fittings before adding grease as it allows some of those dirt particles to enter the fitting and 2. Never allow grease to squirt out of the frontend grease fittings as this can allow dirt and water to enter the fitting as you have pushed the rubber seal out of position. Just my 2 cents.
Grease gun operate is very hard. It’s often a matter of long time practice.
This article is very easy to understand.
My one question : How do I stop a grease gun from leaking?\
Hope that you answer this question.
Either way keep up the awesome work timmarks.
I just received my Lube Shuttle and think it is going to work well. I do have an issue getting the SafeLock to connect. Have not been able to get a solid connection no matter what I try. Not sure how long I need work work with it for it to loosen up.
I watched a video where it said the Safe Lock does not work on all zerks. Is that true? Does the Lock and Lube work better out of the box? Thinking about returning the SafeLock and getting the Lock and Lube with adaptor. Has anyone had this same issue and what did you do. Thanks for the help. Love the Lube Shuttle and want to make it work better.
Correct. SafeLOCK does not work for me either. I recommend the lock n lube.
I have the same problem with the zerks with the 120R loader arms on my JD 1025R.
There are about 3 zerks that the SafeLock won’t lock on to. I think it has to do with the fact that the zerks are in a recessed bore, and a “short” zerk won’t let the SafeLock get pushed on far enough to lock. Evidently, it has to do with low quality zerks being used during the assembly of the tractor. “Ask Tractor Mike” told me that Lube Shuttle will send you new zerks to replace the ones that won’t connect to the SafeLock tip. I can still grease them by just pushing firmly against the bad zerks, but that still is not a real solution to the problem, and kind of defeats the whole purpose of having a lock on grease nozzle.
Correct. The safeLOCK does not work for me either. I have stated in my videos repeatedly to avoid it, and get the lock n lube coupler.
I must be slow, I can’t find the link for an adapter for the Lock-N-Lube on this page, nor on the Amazon page. Sorry, seems like plenty other folks have found it, but can you point me, please!
Never Mind, I found it. My fault all the way
Hello,
I have really enjoyed your YouTube videos. I am taking delivery of my new 1025R in a couple weeks and your insights really helped me make a choice that I am very comfortable with!
I have a question that I hope you might answer regarding the Lube Shuttle system. I think the answer is obvious, but I will ask anyway! One of the benefits touted of the system is that you can quickly change cartridges. I get that, but if I want t to change grease types, I would have to purge the remaining grease out of the line, correct? It seems that the MoS2 moly lube is used for the spinning parts, like the drive shaft and such, and the G200EP is for areas like the loader and steering linkages. So in order for me to use both grease types, I would either be wasting some each time I changed lubes and purged the system, or need two grease guns! Am I thinking about this correctly?
Thanks for your advice!
Keith
The answer in a nutshell is that it isn’t THAT important. You can use G200EP in spinning parts, and you can use MoS2 in the loader linkages. So, switch tubes, and continuing using the gun like normal. You’ll mix it a bit…but no big deal.
I new to use Grease Gun for my tractor. is it good buy for tractor?
Thanks for the Use full Guide mate.
Hope I will get answer for my question here, and keep up the good work.
Yes, this is a great purchase for your first tractor. Easy to use, and avoids the mess of traditional tubes.
Hi Tim. Thanks for your videos and sharing of knowledge, they are quite helpful. I do have a question regarding the greasing of the u-joints on the driveshaft. Given the tight quarters, how do you know that grease has actually purged from all the trunion caps? I have a 2305 (similar, but different from your 1025) and while I could grease the u-joints from under the tractor, I could not really confirm that all the caps purged grease. I decided to pull my driveshaft and found that only 2 of the 4 caps were purging (both front and rear u-joints). With some persuasion and a bit of heat from a heat gun, I get all 4 to purge clean grease. I grease spring and fall by pulling the driveshaft and find I have to use heat and a bit of tapping to get all 4 caps to purge. I was just curious if you can see the purge on the 1025 and if you are having a similar experience.
Thanks again for all of your sharing.
Tom
Hey Tim, love you and thanks for all that you share.
FWIW, it seems LockNLube now sells their own M10 adapter on ebay and its PRIME. May want to add that to your store and/or update your link above.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGH943P/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UPOD5O08GT8E
Thank you,
Brendon
Woops, meant to say Amazon!
I know this video is a few years old, but has anyone taken a look at the lube shuttle Li400? They are touting it as an “all in one” lube for every application. in the attached video, AET systems rep describes them all, but covers the Li400 at around the 10:00 minute mark. What do yall think?
Yes, I think the Li400 is the way to go. It wasn’t available in the USA when this article was written.
“Long time listener, first time caller”. Thanks for getting back so quickly Tim! Have you gone to the Li400? I looked for reviews with little other than what AET has put out. The idea of one grease for everything (trailer axel bearings, universals, loader, my aerator, top dressing machine, etc) is amazing but seems almost too go to be true…
I’ve been using the Li400 grease in my 1025r since new (had it 5 months. Now have 120 hrs on it) and so far I really like the lube shuttle grease gun but honestly will probably take a couple of years to really have a good idea how the grease works. I tend to hit evey fitting with a shot every 10 hors or when I know I have something big coming up so the machine stays pretty lubed up.